Kimono are a traditional part of Japanese culture and a traditional craft. In modern times, there are few opportunities to wear them, so many people probably think that all kimonos are the same.
In fact, there are many different types of kimono, and you need to choose the right one depending on the occasion. If you don't know this and end up wearing one inappropriately, you could end up feeling embarrassed.
This time, we will introduce in detail how to choose a kimono that suits the occasion.
What is the "rank" of a kimono?
The glamorous and beautiful kimono is highly acclaimed not only in Japan but also overseas.
In fact, kimonos also have different levels of status, similar to formal and casual dresses, and there are various ways to choose them depending on the occasion.
There are four main types of "ranks":
- Formal wear (first formal wear)
- Semi-formal attire (ryakureisou)
- Outing clothes
- Town wear, everyday wear, yukata
It is divided into:
Also, the "rank" of men's kimono is
- Formal wear
- Fashionable clothes (fashionable clothes)
There are only two stages:
Knowing the "rank" of a kimono is like knowing the etiquette for the occasion in which you are wearing it.
Kimono are divided into various categories, from high-class kimonos worn on special occasions such as "hare" and "ke," to familiar, casual kimonos that can be worn as everyday wear, such as yukata.
Introducing the types of kimono that represent each rank
There are several types of kimono depending on the rank.
We will introduce the characteristics of each and the appropriate occasions for wearing them.
Formal wear (first formal wear)
The most prestigious type of formal attire is worn at the most formal occasions, such as weddings, funerals, and official ceremonies.
◎ Women's formal wear (first formal wear)
・Uchikake (kimono with a kimono sleeve)
Bridal attire worn at the wedding ceremony and reception, such as a white wedding kimono or a colorful uchikake.
・Black formal kimono
This is the first formal attire for married women. It is characterized by the family crest on the back, the back of both sleeves, and both sides of the chest, as well as a pattern on the hem, and is worn by relatives and matchmakers at weddings.
・Hon-furisode (full-length kimono)
This kimono, characterized by its gorgeous pattern and long sleeves, is the first formal wear for unmarried women. The more patterned and the longer the sleeves, the higher the status. It is worn for coming-of-age ceremonies, weddings, formal parties, etc.
・Mourning clothes
Also known as black crested kimono, it is a plain black kimono with five crests and is worn at funerals.
◎ Men's formal wear (first formal wear)
・Black Habutae with five crests
The first formal attire for men, regardless of age, is a black kimono with five crests, a haori coat, and hakama. It is used for the most prestigious and formal occasions, and is worn by the groom and matchmakers at weddings.
・Colored crested kimono
A kimono other than black, a haori, and a hakama are semi-formal attire of the same rank as a woman's Iro-tomesode. Depending on the material, color, and crest, this kimono can be worn in a wide range of occasions.
Semi-formal attire (ryakureisougi)
This is the second most formal kimono after the first formal wear, and is worn at formal occasions such as wedding receptions and entrance ceremonies.
・Visiting kimono (Homongi)
A kimono with an eba pattern, where the pattern is dyed and finished like a single picture, without any seams separating the pattern.
・Furisode (long-sleeved kimono)
This is the first formal wear for unmarried women, and has long sleeves and a distinctive pattern similar to that of a Homongi. It can be worn for coming-of-age ceremonies, weddings, parties, etc.
・Colored formal kimono (irotomesode)
A kimono with a base color other than black and a pattern on the hemline can be worn by both married and unmarried people. If it has five crests, it is considered the first formal wear, equivalent to a black tomesode, and by reducing the number of crests to three or one, it can be worn in a variety of situations, just like a visiting kimono or a tsukesage.
・Tsukesage (attached kimono)
This kimono has a design where the pattern does not extend across the seams, and the patterning is simpler than that of a Homongi. It is considered a lighter outdoor garment than a Homongi.
・Iromuji (plain-colored kimono)
A plain kimono dyed in a single color other than black, with no pattern. It generally has one crest attached, and depending on the obi sash you choose, it can be worn as semi-formal attire at weddings and tea ceremonies.
・Edo Komon crested kimono
These kimonos are dyed entirely with patterns so intricate that they appear solid from a distance, and their status varies depending on the size and type of pattern.
Outing clothes
Kimono can be worn in a variety of situations, from formal wear to casual wear. It is not as formal as formal wear, but it has a slightly more formal feel than usual, making it a stylish way to wear.
In addition, men's fashionable clothing can be adjusted in a wide range of ways, with or without haori and hakama, making it versatile and convenient.
◎Women's going out clothes
・Komon (small pattern)
A kimono with the same pattern repeated all over. It is worn for casual outings, such as for lessons or dining with friends.
・Aperture
Kimono are dyed by tying the fabric with threads or clamping it with tools. They are often worn as casual, stylish clothing for going to the theater or dining with friends, rather than for parties or dinners.
・Omeshi (meshi)
This kimono is woven using pre-dyed omeshiito thread and is considered to be the highest quality among woven kimonos. It has a smooth texture and a finely textured surface, giving it a unique feel. It can also be worn as semi-formal attire.
・Sarasa
This kimono features an exotic southern pattern that resembles paisley.
・Plain tsumugi
Tsumugi is a rather casual kimono, but plain tsumugi has a slightly more formal impression than tsumugi with splashed or striped patterns.It is worn as a chic and fashionable outfit for casual parties.
・Tsukesage Komon (small patterned kimono)
Tsukesage dyed with a komon pattern. It is considered to be casual, on the same level as komon, but there are also many gorgeous designs, making it suitable for a variety of occasions as a stylish piece of clothing.
・Komon (Yuzen)
A komon kimono with a pattern drawn using Yuzen dyeing. There are various differences in the dyeing and patterns depending on the region.
・Visiting kimono made of tsumugi silk
This is a light-weight visiting kimono characterized by a simple texture. It is not formal wear but is on the same level as a small patterned kimono, so it is more suitable for casual parties and dinners than for formal occasions.
◎Men's going out clothes (fashionable clothes)
・Tsumugi (ensemble)
It is not formal wear, so if you wear it as everyday wear, you can wear it as a kimono without hakama. When going out, you wear a haori, and for formal occasions, you wear hakama. Yuki Tsumugi and Oshima Tsumugi are famous.
・Omeshi Hitotsumontsuki (One-piece crested kimono)
Adding three or one crest to plain kimono (Omeshi or Tsumugi) elevates the status, placing it on the same level as women's plain-colored kimono (montsuki) or visiting kimono. It can also be worn as semi-formal attire for weddings and formal visits.
・Wool (ensemble)
Kimono can be worn casually as everyday wear in town or in private.
・High-quality cloth
Famous for summer kimonos, this thin linen fabric is woven with fine threads and has a smooth texture, excellent breathability, and water absorption.
Town wear, everyday wear, and yukata
It is a casual kimono that can be worn when going out for a short time. It can be worn everyday like regular clothing.
・Kasuri
Kimono with patterns that appear to be brushed in places. In the past, they were worn as everyday clothing, but now they are also popular as casual wear for going out.
・Meisen
These kimonos are made of plain-woven, pre-dyed silk, and the patterns and textures vary depending on the place of origin. Many designs have a retro feel.
·wool
Affordable and durable, kimonos are perfect for everyday use. They are warm and perfect for autumn and winter. They are usually worn at home rather than outside.
・Kihachijo
This yellow striped kimono is dyed using plants from Hachijojima. Various shades of yellow are available, creating beautiful stripes and checkered patterns.
・Tsumugi
This kimono is made from pre-dyed tsumugi silk thread with knots. Because it is made from silk thread, it is a high-quality item, but since it is a low-class kimono, it is worn for casual occasions such as dinner parties with friends, going to the theater, or lessons.
·cotton
Like wool, it is a standard kimono for everyday wear. It can be easily washed and cared for, making it ideal for everyday wear and at home.
・Yukata (yukata)
This is a thin kimono worn in the summer. It is the most casual and popular type of kimono. Nowadays, it is worn at summer fireworks displays and festivals, as well as as sleepwear at inns and other places.
Obi also has a "rank"
Just like kimonos have different ranks, obi sashes also have different ranks. When coordinating your outfit, make sure to wear both obi sashes in the same rank.
・Maru obi (round obi)
This is the most prestigious obi and is worn with the first formal wear: a bridal gown, a black tomesode, or a black furisode.
・Fukuro obi (sash)
It is woven in a bag-like shape and is worn on formal occasions. It is over 4.2 meters long and is tied using a knot called the "double drum."
・Nagoya obi (sash)
The obi is about 3.6m long and is tied in a single-layer drum style. It comes in a variety of styles, from semi-formal to casual, with gold and silver threads and foil, making it suitable for a wide range of occasions.
・Kakuobi (sash)
This is a men's obi, made of obi fabric that is approximately 20cm wide and folded in half. Generally, the thick and firm "Hakata Kenjo" fabric is the most popular choice, making it versatile for both formal and casual wear.
・Heko obi (traditional Japanese traditional obi)
This is a men's obi that is worn as loungewear or for casual occasions. It comes in a wide width of about 74cm or a medium width of about 50cm and is worn with a sash.
This kimono is for this occasion! How to choose the right kimono for the occasion
Kimono does not mean that you can "wear whatever you want whenever you want"; just like Western clothing, it must be worn according to the occasion.
To avoid attending a high-class party in a casual kimono, or conversely, dressing too formally at a casual event, we will also introduce "How to choose a kimono and things to be careful about" for typical wearing occasions.
Kimono for formal occasions such as weddings and other special occasions
Kurotomesode is a kimono worn by relatives and matchmakers at weddings. If you are invited to a wedding outside of your family, we recommend houmongi, furisode, or irotomesode.
Homongi are dyed with a pattern that looks like a single painting, and have a very gorgeous design, making them perfect for formal occasions such as weddings. They can also be worn as party dresses, for formal occasions and other special occasions.
Please note that furisode and irotomesode are too flashy for casual occasions and are not suitable for such occasions. They should be worn at formal to semi-formal parties.
For men, we recommend black habutae with five crests or colored crests. Black habutae with five crests is the most formal attire, while colored crests is the same rank as a woman's colored tomesode, and can be worn in formal occasions.
Kimono for Shichi-Go-San and entrance ceremonies
For these occasions, semi-formal kimono such as Homongi, Tsukesage, Iromuji, and Omeshi are appropriate. Although they are less formal than the most formal attire, depending on the combination of crest and obi, they can be worn in a wide range of situations, from casual wear to more formal occasions.
Since your child is the star at Shichi-Go-San and entrance ceremonies, choose something that is neither too flashy nor too plain, with a pale color and an elegant elegance.
For men, we recommend the Omeshi Hitotsumontsuki. Like women's Tsukesage and Iromuji, it can be used as semi-formal attire for parties and formal occasions.
Kimono worn casually as everyday wear
There are many types of kimono that can be worn as stylish clothing when going out, such as Edo Komon, Komon, Omeshi, Tsumugi, and Yukata. Recommended for casual dinner parties and lessons.
Also, yukata are relaxed wear, so wear them in casual settings such as summer festivals.
Tsumugi and wool kimonos are recommended for men as everyday wear and street wear. Wool kimonos are reasonably priced and easy to care for, so even kimono beginners can wear them with ease.
summary
We have introduced that the types and occasions for wearing kimonos are determined in great detail. By understanding the relationship between TPO and rank, you can dress smartly in any situation.
The overall balance can be adjusted by changing the number of crests and the rank of the obi, and the more you learn about the world of kimono, the deeper its appeal becomes. It is precisely this diverse depth that stimulates the desire for exploration. It would be wonderful if we could spread the word about kimono culture, which Japan is proud of, to foreigners who are interested in Japan.
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This article has been partially re-edited by KARUTA from an article originally published on "Nihongo Biyori."
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